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All-Night Kebab Joint Rises from the Dead in Improbable Comeback

11:01 12.10.2023

In a city that never sleeps, a beloved late-night eatery has made a triumphant return to its old stomping grounds on the Lower East Side. Bereket Turkish Kabob House, now known as Ankara #3, has reopened its doors after being forced to close in 2014 due to gentrification.

For those who lived and frequented downtown Manhattan in the '90s, the reopening of Bereket signifies a nostalgia-filled reunion. The restaurant, famous for its delectable lamb doner sandwiches, was a haven for cabdrivers and intoxicated patrons alike for nearly two decades. The vibrant bar scene surrounding the establishment fostered a unique camaraderie that often spilled into the early morning hours.

The Turgut brothers, Suleyman and Ramazan, are the masterminds behind Bereket's revival. Haci Turugt, the eldest brother, immigrated to New York in the 1980s, followed by Suleyman in 1990. The siblings initially worked at a kebab joint in Greenwich Village before opening their own location on East Houston Street in 1995. Despite its humble beginnings, Bereket flourished, expanding to a larger space on the corner of East Houston and Orchard Streets in 2001.

However, the brothers' joy was short-lived as the wave of gentrification swept through the Lower East Side. In 2014, their lease was not renewed, and Bereket was forced to close its doors. Devastated, the Turguts went their separate ways, with Haci and Suleyman returning to Turkey while Ramazan remained in New York, attempting to replicate Bereket's magic with his own ventures.

Their perseverance paid off when an empty storefront across the street from Bereket's former location became available during the pandemic. Seizing the opportunity, the brothers swiftly reopened Ankara #3. Their impeccable timing couldn't have been better, as late-night spending in the city has surged beyond pre-pandemic levels, and the Lower East Side and East Village boast over 500 bars and restaurants serving alcohol, according to State Liquor Authority data.

The return of Bereket has evoked a wave of emotions among both old and new customers. Nikki D'Alessendro, a 23-year-old retail worker, stumbled upon the restaurant on a late-night walk home and decided to indulge in a lamb doner sandwich. Oblivious to the significance of Bereket's revival, she expressed her love for gyros and enjoyed her meal while observing the vibrant crowd passing by.

Meanwhile, long-time patrons, like Debbie Tobias, reminisce about the heyday of Bereket. Tobias, an art director now residing in Brooklyn, recalls breaking up with a suitor who disliked the aroma of doner meat. She adamantly states, "I could never be with someone who didn't like Bereket."

The Turgut brothers, overwhelmed by the outpouring of support, have experienced customers walking in, hugging them, and even shedding tears of joy. As they cater to a new generation of late-night diners, the brothers acknowledge the power of nostalgia that keeps the older clientele coming back.

In a city constantly evolving, Bereket Turkish Kabob House's return sets an extraordinary precedent. It defies the odds and serves as a testament to the enduring spirit of New York's culinary landscape. Ankara #3 not only offers delectable delicacies but also serves as a symbol of resilience, community, and the unwavering bond between a restaurant and its patrons.

/ Thursday, October 12, 2023, 11:01 AM /

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